Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 377
After I pick up my new car in two weeks, I will be doing quite a bit of renovations on the jeep. With it not being the DD, I can actually work on it and get things right...
Look forward to getting back out there. 95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
OK all. Some of you know I have been working on my hydro assist. I’ll get to that. Also many people have asked me about my OTK (Over The Knuckle) steering. It is not a true high steer, but a less expensive alternative. This will net you approximately 3†of clearance at the tie rod. First off this is on a HPD44. I ran 2 years with no assist. I had a DOM Drag link and a solid stock tie rod. The solid stock tie rod took a beating and did end up bending. I have had zero failures. Here is a pic.
[ image disabled ]
I used the typical 1 Ton steering parts. I got the TRW ones from Advance Auto and these numbers can be cross referenced at any parts store.
Here are the part numbers for the steering ends.
ES2234R (you need 2 of these) - 28.99 ea ES2027L (one needed) - 27.99 ES2233L (one needed) - 33.99
Just so you know there is a difference between the drag link end and a tie rod end. ES2027L is a drag link end. It allows for a larger angle to be achieved.
ES2027L is the passenger tie rod end. This is originally designed for a chevy under the knuckle and the hole is drilled to a smaller taper for the wrong direction. The hole is for the steering stabilizer on a chevy. So this needs reamed from the opposite direction to accept the tie rod end. There is plenty of material to support this.
Here is what the rod ends look like. Yes I know there are no cotter pins on the castle nuts and the jam nuts need tightened, I still need to do an alignment.
Passenger side knuckle
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
Driver side knuckle
[ image disabled ]
Pitman arm
[ image disabled ]
Me new tie rod is 1.25 .335 4130 DOM. Drilled and tapped to accept the 7/8†x 18 thread of the tie rod ends. This way there are no welds to fail.
You can go to regular DOM and weld in bungs if you want something less expensive.
The knuckles and pitman arm will also have to the reamed. The knuckles from the top down to go OTK and the pitman arm to accept the larger drag link end.
Due to me using a D44 I had to go to a longer pitman arm to match the length of the knuckle. I chose a ford drop pitman arm. Rough Country part number RC6602. It provides a 1†drop over the stock xj.
END MOUNTINGS Rod End Crosstube Pin hole 3/4" 1-1/4" cross-tube width
Base End Crosstube Pin hole 3/4" 2" cross-tube width
I will also need to do an internal stop on the cylinder for 7 1/8" travel. Some say this isn’t necessary due to the box having an internal relief when it hits the internal stops. However I have my knuckle stops hitting before the box reaches the internal stops, so if I kept turning with the assist I’d push my knuckles right off the inner-c’s eventually as the ball joints can only take so much. So I took the cylinder apart and added this metal sleeve.
Before
[ image disabled ]
After
[ image disabled ]
Also why we are on the cylinder as this axle is very tight I needed to rotate the fixed end 90 deg so I could have the hoses coming out of the top of the cylinder. I had to cut it off and re-weld it on.
Started like this.
[ image disabled ]
90 deg rotated
[ image disabled ]
Lastly on the cylinder I didn’t want to use a ¾†bolt so I sleeved the ends with bronze down to ½â€
Cooler installed. I put it on the passenger side as it is the side with the mechanical fan and will be pulling air constantly.
[ image disabled ]
The cooler is plumbed off the return line from the box to the top fitting on the cooler. The lower fitting goes to the reservoir on the pump.
I went to the local Parker store for the hose and ends. I may have gone a little overkill on these, but the hose is 4700lb hose reinforced with 3 layers of wire mesh. I had to cut it with a chop saw. I also used reusable ends. As a result if I have a broken line on the trail I can take out my spare line and put the ends on and call it good.
I prefilled everything I could with fluid. This would make bleeding much easier. As for fluid I have heard many things work well, but all agree that Amsoil Synthetic Power Steering Fluid works the best. Some problems are that most people go through growing pains when they first install the hydro assist and have to replace the fluid a couple times and that you can’t get it on the trail or at a part store. Well I bit the bullet and bought a case of it. This way I’ll carry my own and have enough to redo it a couple of times.
Bleeding procedure taken from here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/index3.html Once you have everything installed and plumbed, it's time to fill and bleed. The procedure I discovered works well is: 1. Fill reservoir to just over tip of column 2. Raise front tires off ground to remove resistance 3. Turn steering wheel lock-to-lock while constantly checking the reservoir for air bubbles and level drop. Top us as necessary - be careful not to over-fill. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 4 4. Check fluid level in reservoir, disconnect coil wire, and crank engine over to operate pump and flow fluid through entire circuit. Crank in short bursts. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 5 5. Re-connect coil wire. 6. Check fluid level in reservoir and start engine. Operate at low rpm's at first, do not turn steering wheel. After a few seconds shut down engine and check reservoir. It will likely look like the pic at left, frothy and full of air bubbles. Allow bubbles to dissipate (can take upwards of an hour) and repeat this step until frothing does not occur. 7. Check fluid level in reservoir and start engine. Operate steering lock-to-lock while constantly checking the reservoir for air bubbles and level drop. Top us as necessary - be careful not to over-fill. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 8 8. Top up reservoir, install reservoir cap, lower front tires to ground. Here you can see everything installed. You can see how tight the clearances are.
Turned right
[ image disabled ]
Turned left
[ image disabled ]
Front shots
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
I just need to go through and tighten everything, align it and zip tie the lines.
looking good. If you have problems with flow (I'm sure you won't), try putting on bent tube 90* elbows versus the block 90s. The block 90s tend to restrict flow quite a bit.
I haven't been here in a while. Hope you all are doing well.
Just a small update.
Started on my boatsides. I decided to cut out my rocker to the sill. I’m never putting the doors back on so I’m not concerned what it will do to them.
Here is the starter picture. I have already cut off the rockers at this point. The rockers were down to 24â€
[ image disabled ]
The main piece is 2†x 4†3/16†wall box. It was my old rockers that I cut off and removed the legs.
[ image disabled ]
The legs to the frame are 1 1/4†x 1 1/4†1/8†wall square tube.
[ image disabled ]
There are floor penetrations and the legs are welded at these points. I don’t have pictures of this.
Here is the final picture at this point.
I gained 3 ¾†at the rocker.
[ image disabled ]
I still need to plate these. I’ll get that done this week.
Haven't been on in a while. Here are some updates.
Got the skins cut out and mocked up. Still need to cut some sort of access hole for the spring bolt. And drill some holes to plug weld it to the legs.
[ image disabled ]
All the access holes for the front spring are cut. Plug welds for along the legs are done. All tacked on.
Just need to finish weld and paint. I’ll do that when I’m welding the cage.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ] Well I’ve got a bunch of projects started, but I needed to further along the boatsides. I had to do some finish fitting, drill for plug welds and tack on. I am almost out of both wire and gas so I just tacked it on. Here are the pics. I’ll get the driver side done shortly then its back on the cage.
As this is a 2 door xj and I need access to the back seat made design a little tough. I need the access to the back seat so in the event something happens I can go back and get the kids. I understand some compromises will have to me made. As a result this is being build to withstand a rollover and protect the occupants, but very well may be unusable after the fact. I believe this will withstand many flops and easy rolls.
Design criteria: Protect myself and the kids Access to the back seat Protect A pillar an rain gutter area Incorporate the front fender area Be able to mount front airshocks (eventually) to the front
What I will be doing is an external roof halo and A pillar. Internal B, C and D pillars. V behind the front seats and X behind the rear seats. Downbars on the windshield.
The inside is where I want it. I’m still playing with the outside before I do a final cut. I still have to figure out what to do about the gas fill tube as well.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
So I’ve been travelling a bunch. Got a small front stinger done. I also have been messing with the bender. My cage has very few single bends. Most are 2 bends. I have several with 3 bends on a single plane and I also have 2 that are 2 bends on 2 planes that need to be symmetric (rear comp cut area)
I did the stinger first as I’ve never used the bender and figured this was the easiest. I did manage to screw up the first piece. I set it aside to use in other areas. Here is what I ended up with. It’s just tacked and is awaiting cleanup and finish welding.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
Next I wanted to tackle the comp cut area with the symmetric compound bends. I pretty happy with the results. I still need to trim the ends and tack them on. And do some final cuts to one side, bumper and hatch.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
I got the rear comp cut fender bars tacked in. The passenger side was a little short so I cut, sleeved and added a small piece. Also had to cut my hatch.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
Also I got the front fender lower bar in place. There is still a lot to add here and it’s just tacked, but I was pretty happy with how they turned out. 3 bends on 1 plane to identical pieces.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
Got the roof halo, A pillar and B pillar’s tacked on. Notching owns me. Other than that pretty happy so far. I have a bunch more to add in the front fender area. Then gonna work my way back.
Still making progress. I have a good feel for the notching. Finished up the roof pieces and cross ties. Got the fender bars complete. I still have one piece to add, a diagonal from the front of the lower fender bar to the node where the upper bar meets the tube. Also the piece with blue tape is a piece I need to insert into the A pillar tube with a slug, I just didn’t want to lose track of it.
Also I checked for clearance the hood does open and the windshield wipers have plenty of room.
[ image disabled ]
This picture shows the B pillar in the door jamb, not outside like a true exo.
[ image disabled ]
The windshield bars are 1†sch 40. I wanted something smaller that would be in the line of site.
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
[ image disabled ]
I’ve been working on it just wanted up update the thread.
Got all the fab done. The cut the halo of so I could weld the underside of everything.
I also fixed the front fender I wasn’t happy with. I determined the wheel would hit the front part of the fender bar at stuff. So I cut it off, flipped the bar and welded it back together with a slug and plug welds.
Before
[ image disabled ]
After
[ image disabled ]
Then Jon (xjtrailrider) came over to help me get the halo back on. Thanks Jon. Then proceded to weld everything. I’m about 40% done welding. Everything is tacked in.
I also fixed the area at the a pillar with a new piece welded on with a slug.
