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XJ Build
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Hadfield4wd
Mon Dec 10 2007, 07:55AM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
pee-J wrote ...

Any issue with blind spots?



I just back up till I hit something.

Actually no. I used to drive a dump truck so I use the side mirrors mostly anyway. Don't use the rearview that much. Now if a can get a new passenger one that will be good.

Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Tue Jan 08 2008, 10:54PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Well got the winch installed. Here is the story. Got a killer deal on it from DC. It was not working. I knew that when I got it. I assumed it was at least 2 solenoids, as it didn’t operate in either direction. Turns out it was a bad motor. Warn wanted $250 for a new motor plus shipping. This would bring the cost close to $300. Warn recommended I go to a local starter/alternater repair facility to see if it could be repaired.

Enter PAR, Porters Automotive Rebuilders. I took the motor to them and they said there is a history of these motors have history of poor longevity. Here are a couple of issues with the Warn motors. One is the plastic brush holders (Mine was broken). Loosely would field coil windings (I had a bad one as well). Plastic end cap. Low quality bearings and a reputation of armature problems. He said he had a bolt in replacement made in the USA with a full metal case, metal brush holders and larger brushes. He also said to bring the body in and he would put install the motor and remove the existing pressed in armature bearing. This motor is more powerful and should draw less amps. I’ll report on load testing. The motor is physically longer as well.

Anyway here are the pics.


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Matt

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pee-J
Wed Jan 09 2008, 02:27PM

Registered Member #24
Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 377
I once burned up one of the leads on my M8000. Since replacement I haven't had any issues. Granted, only used it a half dozen times since but still... Aside from that. No other problems. I'll keep all this in mind.

95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
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mcjeep
Wed Jan 09 2008, 05:12PM
NCK Member

Registered Member #14
Joined: Mon Mar 12 2007, 04:40PM
Posts: 85
How much did the motor cost you. I have a hoist that runs off of ac I think but it is maid by warn I got it from my brother. He works at Tcom. They used them to pull the blimps in. It;s brand new and all they where going to do is throw it away. I'll post a pic of it...
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Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 09 2008, 09:38PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
$196 including shipping.

Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Thu Apr 03 2008, 06:36PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Well I have taken a break from the internet for a couple of months. But that doesn't mean work on the jeep stopped.

Well many people know that the charging/electrical system on the XJ is subpar at best. When you add things like a winch it is really lacking. With the headlights, AC, radio and CB on I was down around 10 volts. The first time I kicked the winch on the Jeep stalled. I knew it was time to fix this. I got my info from here:

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/

Jon is very knowledgable and ready to help. I made all my own wires out of #1 welding wire. It is braided and makes for easier bending. All of my ends are soldered, crimped and have heat shrink. I tested my first one by putting a hook in either end and used it as a pull-up bar. It held so I think the connections are fine.

I replaced/added the following wires:

• Battery Positive to Starter
• Battery Positive to the distribution block
• Alternator output to battery positive (stock has this connected to the distribution block I skipped that and went right to the battery – ANL Isolates the alternator from the rest of system should it surge, when you bypass the distribution block it bypasses the factory protection mine is 150A because my new alternator is a 140A) [Added parts]
• Battery Negative to engine block
• Battery Negative to fenderwell [Added]
• Battery Negative to alternator case (Case bonding) [Added]
• Engine block to firewall

With the stock alternator I lose very little voltage with everything on. Maintains around 13 and I don’t have to rev the engine in order to winch. The HO alternator should also help and will be installed shortly.

Anyway here are the pics.

The first 2 are comparisons of old to new. From left to right – New wire, alternator output to distribution block, engine block to battery negative, battery positive to starter, battery positive to distribution block and Engine block to firewall.

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Here it is next to my thumb for a size comparison

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Here is the battery. You’ll notice I only had black wire so the positive I put red tape on the ends. The one red wire is for the winch.

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Here is the 150A ANL fuse.

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Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Thu Apr 03 2008, 06:36PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I took out the existing pickup and sending unit. It looked like this.

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I then got a piece of 3/8” tubing. I could only find chrome, so in this case “chrome will get me home”.

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With the 3/8” tubing it was difficult to get it in the bottom grommet. That was the one left from the pump. When I pushed it in, it expanded it enough that I couldn’t get the pickup screen on. I then put the pickup screen on then inserted the tube. The screen will not fall off.

This done I switched to the wiring and cut the orange wire (Fuel Pump Hot) and soldered a longer pig tail on and used heat shrink to seal it. The ground wire I had to splice into because the fuel gauge sending unit needs the ground as well. I soldered a pig tail on to it as well.

I then installed the pickup. This is a pain in the neck and part of the reason for me going to external on my Jeep. I used Vaseline on the new gasket to hold it in place. Then installed the locking ring with a bronze drift. No sparks are wanted in this area.

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I made a bracket out of 2 x 4 3/16” angle that I had around. Cut it down to 3/4” by 4 for mounting on the skid plate. The skid plate is really beef and secure. It is 1/4” plate with 1 x 1 1/8” angle welded around for rigidity. This is then got 2 frame brackets on the front and is bolted to the bumper via tapped tabs I welded on.

I then mounted the pump (Summit Racing Part #SUM-G3138) on my bracket and installed it on my skid plate. According to the directions the pump should not be mounted below the bottom of the tank. I also installed a pre-filter (Summit Racing Part # RUS-645080). I may be changing this as it has 5/16” barbs at both ends. I had a hard time getting the 5/16” line on the 3/8” end on the pickup. The pump was supposed to have a 3/8” intake and 5/16” discharge. But it didn’t. It seems to work fine, I’ll keep an eye on the lines and change them if need be. I could also put reducers in the line. We’ll see how it does. The pre-filter has a replaceable element so I’ll be getting an extra as well as a spare pump. I installed a new factory fuel filter as well.

I then plumbed everything and wired it up. I used zip ties to make sure nothing rubbed.

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Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Fri Apr 18 2008, 06:12PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Well I sorted through my parts a tools because I'm going wheeling tomorrow. All my sockets were falling off the metal holders and were in the bottom of the tool bag. Takes forever to find what you need. Plus I figured I had too much crap.

I just dumped everything out of the bags onto the garage floor and sorted form there. Turns our I had 14 screwdrivers and 3 of them were the multi ones. Plus I had a ton of duplicate sockets. I also got tool rolls from hf (only place I could find them at the time) for my box wrenches. I ended up taking a ton of these out as there were duplicates of these as well.

I got these really cool socket holders from www.offroadtrailtools.com. The hold the sockets real well. Are flexible and came in 2 colors, so red fo rmetric and black for standard. I spoke with the owner and seemed like a great guy, starting a new business with made in the USA products.

This is still probably too many tools but at least I took a bunch out. People will still look to me for repairs as usual.

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Matt

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gogogadgetbiker
Fri Apr 18 2008, 10:10PM

Registered Member #33
Joined: Fri Apr 06 2007, 11:24AM
Location: G-Vegas
Posts: 388
Everybody could use a little tool organization, looks good.

2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2 SFA
HP D60 front, 5:13's,Chevy brakes, ARB, 35 spline hubs, rotated
GM 14B FF rear 5:13's, Disk, Detroit, 3/8" diff cover
Alcan Waggie 4" front springs and ZR2 4" rear springs
Highsteer/crossover steering, PSC Box
42" IROKs, Eaton 32 Bolt Beadlocks
High Angle Driveshafts
Custom T-case
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Hadfield4wd
Thu Jun 05 2008, 06:12PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
So here are the weights of the Jeep. Done by a race shop with individual scales.


LF – 1147lbs RF – 1121lbs Front total - 2268lbs 48.3%

LR – 1212lbs RR – 1214lbs Rear total – 2425lbs 51.7%


Total weight – 4694lbs

All that to say the Jeep is just too heavy. And the fact that 51.7% of the weight is on the rear is not to my liking. No wonder it doesn’t climb well. With the tire carrier and the tire up high and out back as soon as the nose points up the front tires have very little weight on the so the are not pulling at all. For now it stays, because it is convenient but when the cage goes in, I will remove the tire carrier and the tire will stand up behind the rear seat. I will only carry it when required for specific rides, other than that I won’t carry it at all.

Here is what I started with.

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Ah. A clean slate. The box has served it purpose. When I designed it, I didn’t trailer the Jeep. I drove it everywhere. It was designed to fit 2 coolers and the Rubbermaid bin with the camping gear in it. It kept everything secure and was easy to pack. Could fit the family in it with all the gear, it was a little tight, but worked.

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It’s just too hot to do anything else right now.

The plans are to move as much of the weight forward and low. I will put as much as I can under the seats. The parts and small tools fit in small bags. I will eliminate some items as well. Everything will be secured and the rear seat needs to remain usable. When I am done I will reweigh it on the same scales to see the difference.


Matt

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pee-J
Tue Jun 10 2008, 11:57AM

Registered Member #24
Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 377
I bet taht box will take off about 250 lbs.

95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
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Hadfield4wd
Tue Jun 10 2008, 02:21PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
pee-J wrote ...

I bet taht box will take off about 250 lbs.



With the tools and spares in it you are probably right. That box has been through 3 years of beating. It has 1 sheet and a half of 3/4 plywood plus other wood. It is definatly heavy by itself.

Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Wed Jun 18 2008, 05:13PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I measured the center of the pumpkin to the body with everything in it. Just did it again wiht it empty except for the spare on the back. The Jeep has come up 2". Wow. Can't wait to see how she wheels with less weight.

Matt

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pee-J
Thu Jun 19 2008, 12:11PM

Registered Member #24
Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 377
Might have lost a little traction but you'll make up for it with new clearance.

Here's an idea...
Get your spare in the trunk area laid down flat and centered. If you have to, cut the hatch and either fiberglass a fender shape sideways to cover the hole or leave it open. I know you spent all that time on the nifty carrier but taht way you're self contained and have better vision. No bulky stuff outside the vehicle...

That or move the tabs up for the back seat enough to have the spare clear with no hatch mods.

Just an idea...

[ Edited Thu Jun 19 2008, 12:15PM ]

95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
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Hadfield4wd
Fri Jun 20 2008, 07:58AM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Well I have already decided the carrier goes. It was a good fab exercise. That's a 36" tire no way to close the hatch with it laying down. Don't forget my boys always wheel with me so I need a functional back seat. And they are growing so I won't move it. Ironically I have only carried the spare once this year wheeling. That is for my local club rules. There is only one local trail I even drive too. All the others I trailer. I need to keep it as dry as possible inside so no major hatch mods.

Also the spare will fit standing up in the back directly behind the seat. When the cage goes in, provision for that will be thought out.

The next tire size will be 39's or 40's so I probably won't carry a spare at all, just due to cost. I'll get a tube and call it good.

Matt

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Hadfield4wd
Mon Aug 11 2008, 11:00PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Well many of you broke out all the rear glass at crozet aa couple of months ago.

So I had a local boat canvas place make some snap in side curtains. This way no tarp in the driveway and when it rains on the trail the boys stay dry. When its hot I can take them out.

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Matt

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rockcity
Tue Aug 12 2008, 09:18AM

Registered Member #21
Joined: Tue Mar 13 2007, 05:17PM
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 703
now thats cool

were they reasonably priced?

www.ECORS.com
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ord.sgt.26NC
Tue Aug 12 2008, 05:34PM
Registered Member #23
Joined: Sun Mar 18 2007, 10:12PM
Posts: 543
boy now that beats good ole trash bags and duct tape.
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rockcity
Tue Aug 12 2008, 05:55PM

Registered Member #21
Joined: Tue Mar 13 2007, 05:17PM
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 703
I'm gonna have to do something similar but on a larger scale for the buggy.

www.ECORS.com
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gogogadgetbiker
Tue Aug 12 2008, 07:31PM

Registered Member #33
Joined: Fri Apr 06 2007, 11:24AM
Location: G-Vegas
Posts: 388
can you tell us an approximate cost?

2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2 SFA
HP D60 front, 5:13's,Chevy brakes, ARB, 35 spline hubs, rotated
GM 14B FF rear 5:13's, Disk, Detroit, 3/8" diff cover
Alcan Waggie 4" front springs and ZR2 4" rear springs
Highsteer/crossover steering, PSC Box
42" IROKs, Eaton 32 Bolt Beadlocks
High Angle Driveshafts
Custom T-case
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Hadfield4wd
Wed Aug 13 2008, 07:54AM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
It was $110 plus tax. I told her no rush so it took a while, but I wanted her to fit it in her schedule. She does big boat canvas so she said she used some left overs to keep the cost down.

She'll be getting my half doors and eventually when I cut the body off she'll get a full canvas.

Matt

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rockcity
Wed Aug 13 2008, 11:34AM

Registered Member #21
Joined: Tue Mar 13 2007, 05:17PM
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 703
Where was it done at?

www.ECORS.com
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Hadfield4wd
Sun Aug 17 2008, 06:45PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
VA Canvas LLC at smith mountain lake VA

Matt

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pee-J
Mon Aug 18 2008, 11:56PM

Registered Member #24
Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 377
Pretty damn cool if you ask me...

95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
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Hadfield4wd
Fri Aug 22 2008, 01:17PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Thanks for the props.

Kenny on a side note I was out with Josh the other night and told the "who killed Kenny story" when we met you guys at Tellico. That was a great trip.

Matt

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