Forums
NCKrawlers :: Forums :: NCK Tech Forums :: Pimp my 4x4
 
<< Previous thread | Next thread >>
XJ Build
Go to page   <<      
Moderators: Administrator, NC-Fordguy, KrawlinYJ
Author Post
redman
Fri Aug 22 2008, 07:51PM
NCK Officer

Registered Member #15
Joined: Mon Mar 12 2007, 06:47PM
Location: Colerain, NC
Posts: 260
that it was


big mean machine - D44 front 12 bolt rear, stuffed with 4.88 gears, locked front and rear, all powered by a 360 on propane

Back to top
pee-J
Tue Sep 02 2008, 11:41PM

Registered Member #24
Joined: Tue Mar 20 2007, 06:44PM
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 377
After I pick up my new car in two weeks, I will be doing quite a bit of renovations on the jeep. With it not being the DD, I can actually work on it and get things right...

Look forward to getting back out there.

95 XJ 4.0HO>AW-4>NP241"Roc-Trac." Rough Country 6.5" on 33's. Warn M8000, locked and armored up but (was) driven daily.
Back to top
rockcity
Wed Sep 03 2008, 12:23AM

Registered Member #21
Joined: Tue Mar 13 2007, 05:17PM
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 703
maybe you can get a minute to pick up these axles and c clips?

www.ECORS.com
Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Oct 28 2008, 12:36PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
OK all. Some of you know I have been working on my hydro assist. I’ll get to that. Also many people have asked me about my OTK (Over The Knuckle) steering. It is not a true high steer, but a less expensive alternative. This will net you approximately 3” of clearance at the tie rod. First off this is on a HPD44. I ran 2 years with no assist. I had a DOM Drag link and a solid stock tie rod. The solid stock tie rod took a beating and did end up bending. I have had zero failures. Here is a pic.

[ image disabled ]

I used the typical 1 Ton steering parts. I got the TRW ones from Advance Auto and these numbers can be cross referenced at any parts store.

Here are the part numbers for the steering ends.

ES2234R (you need 2 of these) - 28.99 ea
ES2027L (one needed) - 27.99
ES2233L (one needed) - 33.99

Just so you know there is a difference between the drag link end and a tie rod end. ES2027L is a drag link end. It allows for a larger angle to be achieved.

ES2027L is the passenger tie rod end. This is originally designed for a chevy under the knuckle and the hole is drilled to a smaller taper for the wrong direction. The hole is for the steering stabilizer on a chevy. So this needs reamed from the opposite direction to accept the tie rod end. There is plenty of material to support this.

Here is what the rod ends look like. Yes I know there are no cotter pins on the castle nuts and the jam nuts need tightened, I still need to do an alignment.

Passenger side knuckle

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Driver side knuckle

[ image disabled ]

Pitman arm

[ image disabled ]

Me new tie rod is 1.25 .335 4130 DOM. Drilled and tapped to accept the 7/8” x 18 thread of the tie rod ends. This way there are no welds to fail.

You can go to regular DOM and weld in bungs if you want something less expensive.

The knuckles and pitman arm will also have to the reamed. The knuckles from the top down to go OTK and the pitman arm to accept the larger drag link end.

Due to me using a D44 I had to go to a longer pitman arm to match the length of the knuckle. I chose a ford drop pitman arm. Rough Country part number RC6602. It provides a 1” drop over the stock xj.

All in all I am very happy with this set up.


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Oct 28 2008, 12:37PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Next comes in the hydro assist.


I ordered this cooler from Summit

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D3818&N=700+4294924500+400226+115&autoview=sku

I have a yj box drilled and tapped for 3/8" NPT

I have the inner frame plated.

I have this Tie Rod Bracket.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_21-1474.html

I did the West Texas Pump Mod.

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

I have this cylinder.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007040810283306&item=9-4410-08&catname=hydraulic

SPECIFICATIONS
Double Acting
Bore/Stroke 1 1/2" x 8"
2,000 PSI max
Rod dia 3/4"

Ports 3/8" NPT
Retracted Length 13 1/2"
Shpg. 10 lbs.

END MOUNTINGS
Rod End Crosstube
Pin hole 3/4"
1-1/4" cross-tube width

Base End Crosstube
Pin hole 3/4"
2" cross-tube width

I will also need to do an internal stop on the cylinder for 7 1/8" travel. Some say this isn’t necessary due to the box having an internal relief when it hits the internal stops. However I have my knuckle stops hitting before the box reaches the internal stops, so if I kept turning with the assist I’d push my knuckles right off the inner-c’s eventually as the ball joints can only take so much. So I took the cylinder apart and added this metal sleeve.

Before

[ image disabled ]

After

[ image disabled ]

Also why we are on the cylinder as this axle is very tight I needed to rotate the fixed end 90 deg so I could have the hoses coming out of the top of the cylinder. I had to cut it off and re-weld it on.

Started like this.

[ image disabled ]

90 deg rotated

[ image disabled ]

Lastly on the cylinder I didn’t want to use a ¾” bolt so I sleeved the ends with bronze down to ½”

Here is a pic of the frame plating ¼”.

[ image disabled ]

New box bolted in.

[ image disabled ]

Axle brackets welded on.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]



Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Oct 28 2008, 12:38PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Cooler installed. I put it on the passenger side as it is the side with the mechanical fan and will be pulling air constantly.

[ image disabled ]

The cooler is plumbed off the return line from the box to the top fitting on the cooler. The lower fitting goes to the reservoir on the pump.

I went to the local Parker store for the hose and ends. I may have gone a little overkill on these, but the hose is 4700lb hose reinforced with 3 layers of wire mesh. I had to cut it with a chop saw. I also used reusable ends. As a result if I have a broken line on the trail I can take out my spare line and put the ends on and call it good.

I prefilled everything I could with fluid. This would make bleeding much easier. As for fluid I have heard many things work well, but all agree that Amsoil Synthetic Power Steering Fluid works the best. Some problems are that most people go through growing pains when they first install the hydro assist and have to replace the fluid a couple times and that you can’t get it on the trail or at a part store. Well I bit the bullet and bought a case of it. This way I’ll carry my own and have enough to redo it a couple of times.

Bleeding procedure taken from here.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/index3.html
Once you have everything installed and plumbed, it's time to fill and bleed. The procedure I discovered works well is:
1. Fill reservoir to just over tip of column
2. Raise front tires off ground to remove resistance
3. Turn steering wheel lock-to-lock while constantly checking the reservoir for air bubbles and level drop. Top us as necessary - be careful not to over-fill. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 4
4. Check fluid level in reservoir, disconnect coil wire, and crank engine over to operate pump and flow fluid through entire circuit. Crank in short bursts. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 5
5. Re-connect coil wire.
6. Check fluid level in reservoir and start engine. Operate at low rpm's at first, do not turn steering wheel. After a few seconds shut down engine and check reservoir. It will likely look like the pic at left, frothy and full of air bubbles. Allow bubbles to dissipate (can take upwards of an hour) and repeat this step until frothing does not occur.
7. Check fluid level in reservoir and start engine. Operate steering lock-to-lock while constantly checking the reservoir for air bubbles and level drop. Top us as necessary - be careful not to over-fill. When no more air appears to bubble out and the level remains constant, go to step 8
8. Top up reservoir, install reservoir cap, lower front tires to ground.
Here you can see everything installed. You can see how tight the clearances are.

Turned right

[ image disabled ]

Turned left

[ image disabled ]

Front shots

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

I just need to go through and tighten everything, align it and zip tie the lines.

Road test and trail test info to follow.


Matt

Back to top
rockcity
Tue Oct 28 2008, 01:01PM

Registered Member #21
Joined: Tue Mar 13 2007, 05:17PM
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 703
looking good. If you have problems with flow (I'm sure you won't), try putting on bent tube 90* elbows versus the block 90s. The block 90s tend to restrict flow quite a bit.

Looks like a nice addition.

www.ECORS.com
Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Oct 28 2008, 03:30PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Makes sense, thanks.

[ Edited Wed Oct 29 2008, 04:04PM ]

Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Oct 29 2008, 04:04PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Just finished the alignment. Went down the road great. No issues. Seamed to go straight. :mrgreen:

No leaks. Overall I'm satisfied we'll see how it does in some rocks.

Matt

Back to top
gogogadgetbiker
Wed Oct 29 2008, 07:24PM

Registered Member #33
Joined: Fri Apr 06 2007, 11:24AM
Location: G-Vegas
Posts: 388
Looks great man, some great tech for those who didn't know also.

2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2 SFA
HP D60 front, 5:13's,Chevy brakes, ARB, 35 spline hubs, rotated
GM 14B FF rear 5:13's, Disk, Detroit, 3/8" diff cover
Alcan Waggie 4" front springs and ZR2 4" rear springs
Highsteer/crossover steering, PSC Box
42" IROKs, Eaton 32 Bolt Beadlocks
High Angle Driveshafts
Custom T-case
Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Mon Aug 31 2009, 11:41AM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I haven't been here in a while. Hope you all are doing well.

Just a small update.

Started on my boatsides. I decided to cut out my rocker to the sill. I’m never putting the doors back on so I’m not concerned what it will do to them.

Here is the starter picture. I have already cut off the rockers at this point. The rockers were down to 24”

[ image disabled ]

The main piece is 2” x 4” 3/16” wall box. It was my old rockers that I cut off and removed the legs.

[ image disabled ]

The legs to the frame are 1 1/4” x 1 1/4” 1/8” wall square tube.

[ image disabled ]

There are floor penetrations and the legs are welded at these points. I don’t have pictures of this.

Here is the final picture at this point.

I gained 3 ¾” at the rocker.

[ image disabled ]

I still need to plate these. I’ll get that done this week.


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:01PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Haven't been on in a while. Here are some updates.

Got the skins cut out and mocked up. Still need to cut some sort of access hole for the spring bolt. And drill some holes to plug weld it to the legs.

[ image disabled ]

All the access holes for the front spring are cut. Plug welds for along the legs are done. All tacked on.

Just need to finish weld and paint. I’ll do that when I’m welding the cage.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]
Well I’ve got a bunch of projects started, but I needed to further along the boatsides. I had to do some finish fitting, drill for plug welds and tack on. I am almost out of both wire and gas so I just tacked it on. Here are the pics. I’ll get the driver side done shortly then its back on the cage.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:03PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Also working on a cage.

It’s nekid. 1.5 x .120 HREW

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Cut line for the comp cut

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

As this is a 2 door xj and I need access to the back seat made design a little tough. I need the access to the back seat so in the event something happens I can go back and get the kids. I understand some compromises will have to me made. As a result this is being build to withstand a rollover and protect the occupants, but very well may be unusable after the fact. I believe this will withstand many flops and easy rolls.

Design criteria:
Protect myself and the kids
Access to the back seat
Protect A pillar an rain gutter area
Incorporate the front fender area
Be able to mount front airshocks (eventually) to the front

What I will be doing is an external roof halo and A pillar. Internal B, C and D pillars. V behind the front seats and X behind the rear seats. Downbars on the windshield.



Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:03PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I cut a bunch out of the back end.

The inside is where I want it. I’m still playing with the outside before I do a final cut. I still have to figure out what to do about the gas fill tube as well.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]


So I’ve been travelling a bunch. Got a small front stinger done. I also have been messing with the bender. My cage has very few single bends. Most are 2 bends. I have several with 3 bends on a single plane and I also have 2 that are 2 bends on 2 planes that need to be symmetric (rear comp cut area)

I did the stinger first as I’ve never used the bender and figured this was the easiest. I did manage to screw up the first piece. I set it aside to use in other areas. Here is what I ended up with. It’s just tacked and is awaiting cleanup and finish welding.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Next I wanted to tackle the comp cut area with the symmetric compound bends. I pretty happy with the results. I still need to trim the ends and tack them on. And do some final cuts to one side, bumper and hatch.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

I got the rear comp cut fender bars tacked in. The passenger side was a little short so I cut, sleeved and added a small piece. Also had to cut my hatch.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Also I got the front fender lower bar in place. There is still a lot to add here and it’s just tacked, but I was pretty happy with how they turned out. 3 bends on 1 plane to identical pieces.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Got the roof halo, A pillar and B pillar’s tacked on. Notching owns me. Other than that pretty happy so far. I have a bunch more to add in the front fender area. Then gonna work my way back.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]



Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:04PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Still making progress. I have a good feel for the notching. Finished up the roof pieces and cross ties. Got the fender bars complete. I still have one piece to add, a diagonal from the front of the lower fender bar to the node where the upper bar meets the tube. Also the piece with blue tape is a piece I need to insert into the A pillar tube with a slug, I just didn’t want to lose track of it.

Also I checked for clearance the hood does open and the windshield wipers have plenty of room.

[ image disabled ]

This picture shows the B pillar in the door jamb, not outside like a true exo.

[ image disabled ]

The windshield bars are 1” sch 40. I wanted something smaller that would be in the line of site.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

I’ve been working on it just wanted up update the thread.

Got all the fab done. The cut the halo of so I could weld the underside of everything.

[ image disabled ]



Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:04PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I also fixed the front fender I wasn’t happy with. I determined the wheel would hit the front part of the fender bar at stuff. So I cut it off, flipped the bar and welded it back together with a slug and plug welds.

Before

[ image disabled ]

After

[ image disabled ]

Then Jon (xjtrailrider) came over to help me get the halo back on. Thanks Jon. Then proceded to weld everything. I’m about 40% done welding. Everything is tacked in.

I also fixed the area at the a pillar with a new piece welded on with a slug.

I’m pretty happy with it.

Here are the pics.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Wed Jan 20 2010, 04:05PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
And that is up to date.

Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:30PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I think I should update this.

Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:32PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I did really go over things and found 1 area that needed attention. The C Pillar sits on 1/4” plate that is over the frame rail portion. However I realized the area that supports the bars was just hanging out there. So I added this piece. I did this on both sides.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Got my wheel wells done as well. Not perfect but will keep the rocks out.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

The only thing that I’m not all that happy with is the fuel filler. I have some ideas for it but they’ll come later. I’m just going to use a bungee cord now because I want to go wheeling.

Final pics completed.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:32PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
The flop

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS-cHsA-6ys

That rock landed on the weakest part. I know how to strengthen it without losing too much access. I’ll be making changes stay tuned.

Well here is the damage.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Like a said earlier I still want access to the back seat. And the rock landed at an area that had very little support. So Chris (jeepnchris) gave me this idea. This way if I did land like that again it would have the support to withstand it as the bar comes off at a node and transfers the force to the rest of the cage.

[ image disabled ]

While I was at it I added some door bars. And yes I can still get in the back seat.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

I had some gussets made welded them in and painted the rig.

[ image disabled ]


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:38PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Did a bunch of wheeling. Used it as a tow truck at harlan.

Click the photo its a video

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Did a bunch of other wheeling and rolling

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:39PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
I've added beadlocks.


Well I have needed beadlocks for a long time. Just about every trip I lose a bead or bend a rim or both. I have had an extra set of rims around the house in order to get a weld-on kit. However I have a problem with the weld-on kits. They all are very heavy. Anywhere from 20-28 lbs. Added to a rim and you’re talking about a close to 40lb rim. I already break shafts so that much added rotational mass would only add to the situation.

So I have spent a lot of time looking into the different options. I thought about going to aluminum rims and internal beadlocks like the Inner Air locks. But I felt I’d need a strengthening ring to weld to the outer lip so I didn’t break a rim. That is when I stumbled on Aero Race Wheels (www.aeroracewheels.com). I purchased mine through www.trailheadcustoms.com. They build wheels for dirt track cars. They only come in 15”. They have a DIY kit that is relatively inexpensive and is very light comparatively. The DIY kit they sell is only 7.2lbs with hardware, which is amazing. Also because the outer ring has a shape to it, you don’t need to worry about coning or centering the tire. Also if you want to go even lighter they have an aluminum outer ring that will save you another 1.5lbs. Anyway here is a chart that I did to compare the weights.

[ image disabled ]

You can see that buy going aluminum I wouldn’t save any weight. I weighed my rims after I welded the beadlocks with the hardware and they are right at 28lbs. Now keep in mind there is a lot of variation in rim weights. The unbeadlocked steelies I took off were considerably heavier than what I started with. They weighed in at 26lbs. So I had a net gain of 2.5lbs per wheel. I’m pretty happy with this.

Ok back to Aero. I was very pleased with the quality. The inner ring holes all had nutserts installed so no need to use a box wrench on a nut on the back side when torqueing down the bolts.

[ image disabled ]

One thing I was surprised by was that the inner ring only had 16 nutserts and holes and the outer ring had 32 holes. If I had read their webpage better I would have seen this. The other thing I was surprised about was that the bolts were 5/16’s and not 3/8’s like most other manufacturers recommend. In addition the bolts were just case hardened and not grade 8. So I went to the local Fastenal and bought 64, grade 8 5/16’s flange bolts. I spoke with tech support at Aero and they don’t think the number or size of the bolts will make a huge difference for my application. The bolt heads are protected from rocks by the ring and they use this setup on 800hp sprint cars. They did suggest checking the torque regularly as most of their users change tires every week. Only time would tell.

The powder coating on the outer rings is very good. These are 1/8” but with the pressed outer, that adds a lot of strength over a flat piece of steel like most DIY kits. There is also a mounting flange for a mud cover that I’m not using and was tempted to cut off. Maybe I’ll do that at a later date. In addition all my valve stems had to be relocated. With the beadlocks on they pointed directly at the inner ring. It would make it virtually impossible to fill with air. So I used a solid rod to fill the gap and welded the holes closed. Then I redrilled holes out of the way.

The welding was pretty easy. I took my time and prepped everything well. Ground the rim and the inner ring then wiped them down with acetone. Due to the fact that these are not ¼” thick they sit further down in the rim than other DIY kits so I tacked them in then very carefully cut 3/16” off of the rim. This way the weld surface was flush. Here are the pictures completed and mounted on the Jeep.

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

[ image disabled ]

If you’re interested in Aero Race Wheels they don’t sell directly you have to go through a vender. You can e-mail Josh at Trailhead Customs for pricing.


josh©trailheadcustoms.com


Also on a side note they have complete beadlock rims in 5 x 4.5 and 5 x 5. The 2 most popular Jeep bolt patterns. They have various backspacing and colors. They are also really light at 23lbs each.


Matt

Back to top
Hadfield4wd
Tue Mar 29 2011, 01:42PM

Registered Member #43
Joined: Sun Apr 15 2007, 02:36PM
Posts: 134
Just neglected maintenance.

For many reasons I not longer have access to my dad's truck as a tow rig so I bought one. I'm picking it up tomorrow and it needs some work.

Matt

Back to top
toyzilla
Thu Mar 31 2011, 07:53PM
Moderater

Registered Member #12
Joined: Mon Mar 12 2007, 10:39AM
Location: Tarboro, NC
Posts: 477
Hadfield4wd wrote ...

Just neglected maintenance.

For many reasons I not longer have access to my dad's truck as a tow rig so I bought one. I'm picking it up tomorrow and it needs some work.


need to get set up to goto Crozet april 9th
been a long


"take it to the eXtreme"

93 Toyota Custom Built Tube Buggy Rock Crawler
4-link F&R, 36" TSL tires, 12k winch, Fox Shox, lock & loaded, dual cases, beadlocks , New Dirty 30 Front Axles
Check Out My Rig and Trail Rides. My photo's
scimpressions.com
Back to top
Mr. Gray
Tue Apr 05 2011, 07:54PM
NCK Member
Registered Member #339
Joined: Sat Jan 15 2011, 02:42PM
Location: Jacksonville NC
Posts: 127
I ran the inner air locks on my junk. I looked at just about the same stuff you did, But picked the air lockes only because I still drive my rig on the street. If it were a off road only type rig I would have gone the same way as you did.

you have Nice looking rig BTW.

Steven
03 S10 D44 Front, GM 10bolt Rear, 4.88 gears sittin on 36's
Back to top
Go to page   <<       

Jump:     Back to top

Syndicate this thread: rss 0.92 Syndicate this thread: rss 2.0 Syndicate this thread: RDF
Powered by e107 Forum System